ROKSANDA'S TECHNICOLOR DREAM

PULLED FROM THE BEYONDTHERUNWAYS.COM ARCHIVES MAR 2015:

F/W 2015 RTW London

Roksanda has come far since her first mini-show in London nearly 10 years ago. Gone were the insecurities of finding personal artistry, the ill-fitted satin sheaths, and the ambitious yet contrived shapes, all of which permeated through her early collections. Back then, it was obvious that she wanted to show the world her skills in craftsmanship, but creativity was few and far between, confusing the audience of what she was truly capable of. Through the years, she has undoubtedly discovered her identity as a designer, and with each show, she became more confident, more unrestrained, more determined.

This collection felt like a 1940s Technicolor fantasy: Roksanda was our guide, and we were captivated every step of the way. The experience became something out of Tim Burton’s Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. It was vibrant, fun, imaginative, and all the while elegant. Everything, from the romantic fox-fur collars to the almost cartoon-like stage created by artist Gary Card, was sublime. My favorite looks were a dark, un-hemmed coat with a plush aubergine and mustard fur stole, and a uniquely striped fur coat, splashed with vivid colors, paired with a gold-plated belt.

Roksanda has transformed from being a designer of garments that confused us to garments that we want to wear, and finally, with this last collection, garments that transport us to a fantasy. The best designers, to me, have an inexplicable talent of fusing imagination and restraint; they help us visualize dreams that would otherwise be forgotten a few moments after waking up. Roksanda has truly out-done herself with this show, and I look forward to seeing what she has to offer next. In the meantime, I’ve developed a particular craving for Wonka candy. Better save it for after spring break.

-A

My favorite looks: