HAKONE TRANQUILITY

IN JAPAN, WE SPENT 3 DAYS IN TOKYO, 1 DAY IN HAKONE, 3 DAYS IN KYOTO, AND 2 DAYS BACK IN TOKYO. THIS POST CAPTURES THE HAKONE PART OF THE TRIP. 

Simply put, Hakone was such a breath of fresh air from the bustling lights and nightlife of Tokyo. Its tranquil village surroundings, forest temples, and traditional ryokans made for a perfect escape from the big city. 

That morning, we took a bullet train from Tokyo to Odawara station, then got a local bus (albeit wrong bus that we had to course correct later) that headed into the mountains. One of the first things I noticed was how orderly and respectful the bus system was. At every stop, the bus driver would not allow any passengers to board until the passengers getting off were all disembarked. Sometimes, this took several minutes with passengers shuffling heavy bags from the back of the bus, but passengers waiting to get on stood patiently at the stop. The bus ride ended up being nearly an hour and a half going to our ryokan, but the journey was well worth it. 

Upon our arrival, the staff asked us to remove our shoes and instead wear the ryokan's indoor slippers. They kindly moved luggage to our room and stored our outdoor shoes away. Inside, we were led to a quiet reception area, where the main attendant greeted us with fresh tea, a hot towel, and a red bean cookie. Our room was like what you would imagine from traditional Japanese housing: bamboo "carpet" mats, wooden panel doors that separated the bedroom and the living room, cushions on the ground instead of chairs, all the like. The cherry on top was the private onsen (hot spring) with a floor to ceiling window that opens to the outside. 

After taking a walk around the property, we took a short bus ride to Lake Ashi and Hakone Shrine. By this time, it was early evening and the lake was filled with fog, so unfortunately we weren't able to see views of Mt. Fiji. Nonetheless, it was so peaceful to walk into the forest at dusk, with the pathway lit by red lanterns. Smells of pine, rain, and incense lingered in the air while faint sounds of birds chirping echoed through the woods. The beauty of the surrounding nature was unavoidable, and it truly felt like one can find serenity in this quaint mountainous village. 

What I wore: Kanye West Pablo SF hoodie, Zara coat, Hudson jeans, Star Wars t-shirt, Genuine People boots, & Marc Jacobs bag.

When we returned to the ryokan, we dressed in traditional robes provided by the staff and headed to the kaiseki dinner. Everything about service, presentation, and quality of the 8 course dinner was amazing. At the end of dinner, the attendant asked us what time we would like to have breakfast tomorrow, served in a similar style. What beats a staycation with a full service quality dinner down the hall? 

Japanese menu

The best part of the experience might've been the onsen. As part of the recommended process, you wash off prior to getting in the bath, soak for a little while, and dry off. The key was to not wash off after the bath so that the natural minerals can be absorbed. After a few whirlwind days of traveling, it was just what I needed. The next morning, we went to breakfast right on time, and to our delight, our meal was ready on the same table we sat at the night before. This was as far from a continental breakfast as you could get. Virtually each ingredient was presented in its own bowl, you could even cook your own tofu at the table! 

I couldn't resist taking another bath before checkout. Everything was perfect and I would definitely do it again. If only staying at a ryokan in the States was as easy... perhaps a future business venture?